Chch To Gansu

Day 52: Liangzhou Winery

2008-10-18T00:00:00.000-07:00

Our first destination on our last day of this tour was Liangzhou Winery located in Leitei Park. This location was chosen for the winery because of the accessibility of water and for a region with great historic and cultural significance.

We saw a storeroom for baijiu which contained many hundreds of flasks of the white wine, ranging from one-to-eleven years of age. The smell of the wine was strong, and a sample proved the high quality of it.

Next we saw a processing room for hongjiu, red wine, which incorporated much Italian machinery. Again, the volumes were staggering and the scent intoxicating. We learnt that they are looking for three types of partnerships: an international tastemaster, experts, and export partners to introduce their wine to other countries.

Next we were taken to a historic Buddhist shrine to Ancestor Zhou. Here we burnt incense and bowed in reverence.

We also saw a museum on the history of the region and of Liangzhou Winery, including an ancient poem extolling the virtues of the wine of the region. There were many interesting relics: stone carving, earthen pottery, paintings and sculptures. A brief but interesting visit!

Day 51: Shandan City

2008-10-17T02:00:00.000-07:00

Our next stop was Shandan. It felt very much like home there -- a very agriculturally-oriented region that is overlooked by hills resembling our Port Hills and with the most friendly people, and it was a great honour to visit where Rewi Alley second home was.

We visited the Shandan Museum where it tells of the life of Rewi Alley and houses a great many items donated from the collection of Rewi Alley. There were all manner of historical artifacts, including: carvings, badges, pottery, tools and more!

Before departing Shandan, we visited Shandan Bailie School, a school that was set up by Rewi Alley and others in the 1940s. The purpose of these schools was to increase the technical knowledge of the local Chinese. To this day the technical focus remains: we saw students working lathes, putting together electrical circuits, and welding. Rewi Alley himself taught here for many years, and his former residence is under restoration.

Read more on Rewi Alley here

I was very excited to hear that my home-district, Selwyn, is entering a Sister City Relationship with Shandan in Gansu, China. I wish them well!

Day 51: Rural Village Visit

2008-10-17T01:00:00.000-07:00

Then we went to a rural village, set up as a model of socialist living. The village has four aims: to increase productivity, to increase the standard of living, to increase the cleanliness of the village, and to increase democracy.

Productivity has been increased by hitting niche markets, for example using greenhouses to produce crops when usually it would not be available. Over the last ten years the average workers salary has quadrupled, 98% of villagers are now covered by health insurance and all children receive nine years of education.

We were shown through a couple of villager's homes, which were quite comfortable but without the extravagence of the rural village of Qingyang. This was a success story of how the people can band together to improve all of their lives.

Day 51: Zhangye City Water Conservation

2008-10-17T00:00:00.000-07:00

After breakfast we were whisked away to visit the Zhangye City Association for Science and Technology where we saw an exhibition on water utilisation and conservation in the region. As the city lies within the Hexi Corridor, between the Qilian Mountains and a series of hills, there is little opportunity for water collection. The largest source is the Black River which begins at the snow-capped Qilian Mountains and winds its way down. There is insufficient rainfall to make its collection practical (Ironically, this day it was raining but, as in Lanzhou, it was Canterbury-style drizzle so would not yield much actual water).

With the growing population there has been greater need to rationalise its use. There are numerous dams along it for enery production, and water collection and use within the city is limited. We were informed that each of our hotel rooms from the previous night was limited in water use per day.

The conservation of water is not only for Zhangye, but for the benefit of the Autonomous Mongolian Region bordering on it for whom the Black River also serves. It has been said that this water source is the greatest asset Gansu can provide Mongolia, and so protecting it is vital.

Zhangye is a key city along the Silk Road, with historic, cultural and economic importance. Our time in Zhangye was wonderful, but my attention was quickly pulled to the second home of Rewi Alley, Shandan.

Day 50: Zhangye City

2008-10-16T00:00:00.000-07:00

Our next city visit was to Zhangye, a strongly agricultural region which also became the second home to a very famous New Zealander, Rewi Alley.

While in Zhangye we visited the Great Buddha Temple. Around 1098AD the emperor's Buddhist tutor, Wei Mie, claimed to have heard heavenly music and followed the sound to the place where he dug out from underground an ancient statue of Buddha in the posture of Nirvana. A temple was then built, The Reclining Buddha Temple, later renamed the Hong Ren meaning "widespread benevolence"; Bao Jue, "Precious enlightenment"; and later again 'Hong Ren', "broad benevolence)". Eventually it became to be known as the Great Buddha Temple.

The Great Buddha Temple holds the largest indoor, clay statue of Buddha Reclining -- as we walked around to it we were told, "That is not a wall: that is his feet!" -- and the most complete first edition of the Tri-pitaka, the classic Buddhist scriptures. There are also many frescoes and thousands of ancient relics stored and on display here.

It was indeed an impressive collection, and that was not all Zhangye has to offer!

Day 49: Dunhuang Night Markets

2008-10-15T03:00:00.000-07:00

On both nights that we stayed in Dunhuang we ventured down the road to see the Night Markets. There is a pedestrian mall that during the day focusses on the shops that line the street, but at night the street fills up with a line of stalls as long as the eye can see!

There are all manner of items on sale: from the ubiquitous food stalls, local books, to local art (including paintings inspired by the fabulous Mogao Grotto Frescoes, wood-etched scenes of camels crossing the desert, to bottles with paintings skillfully done on the inside of the bottle...). There was silk scarves, mirror cases, beaded bracelets, pocket watches, Chinese name stamps -- etched to order before your eyes -- The sellers along here are quite pleasant though and we spent much time wandering along.

So, what did I buy? I bought a book on the Mogao and other local grottoes, impressed by the images inside. I was also intrigued by the beaded bracelets, and left with four: one carved from peach-stones, one a brilliant red, another a bright green, and lastly a light blue stone bracelet. The red bracelet turned out to be plastic: I know have a full understanding of the warning against 'shady dealers' (and the need to closely inspect what you buy!) The green bracelet was similarly disappointing in full light, being little more than painted glass beads. The blue stone bracelet was a gift from a friend (intrigue!) and was indeed the genuine article. The peach stone bracelet has the Chinese symbols 福，寿 and 禄 etched onto each stone. 福 (fú) means 'happiness', 寿(shòu) means 'long life', and 禄(lù) means 'prosperity'. Indeed, this is what I wish for each of you!

Day 49: Minsha Mountain and Crescent Moon Lake

2008-10-15T02:00:00.000-07:00

In amongst the dunes of the Gobi is a wonder called 'Crescent Moon Lake'. It is a natural lake surrounded by a sparse area of lush greenery before the sand wins over again. We visited this place, and took time for a few activities here also.

First we climbed the dune. Walking through sand is difficult, but walking up sand dunes is even more so, constantly slipping away from the destination. Many of our group made the effort, though, and were rewarded with a wonderful view -- the Crescent Moon Lake oasis in amongst the dunes. Climbing down was far more fun than going up -- I leaped down like a gazelle (or a mad-man...)

We were then taken to visit a caravan of camels, which were curious creatures. They walk with a swaying swagger and commune with a low moan. We were split into groups of four who then got to ride a group of camels as we were lead through the desert. This was not as unusual an experience as I'd expected, though perhaps unusual that they chose to serve us camel that evening...

Crescent Moon Lake is a wonderful place and well worth the visit. Thank you for sharing your beauties with us, Dunhuang!

Day 49: Yang Guan Pass

2008-10-15T01:00:00.000-07:00

This Pass marked the entry point onto the Silk Road, and as such was used as a Visa point to enter China.

The museum there contained another comprehensive story of the Silk Road and many more relics found there. There was a display of plants introduced from China to the rest of the world which surprised me: it showed the grape, broadbean, carrot, and flax though far different from the New Zealand variety) amongst others. Another display showed a number of famous (ancient) Dunhuang people. Entertainment has clearly been a strength of Dunhuang for many years, the list including: Sui Cheng, Musician; Suo Jing, Calligrapher; and Zhou Fei, Artist. The list also included Song Qian, Educator; Gau Yu, Confucionist; and Gan Yin, Geographer.

In the spirit of the Pass being the gateway, we were each issued a mock passport with our own name handwritten by a calligrapher; and we were duly processed as we departed.

Counter to yesterday's display of defence against attack, outside the museum was a collection of fighting machines: a catapult, a battering ram, a similar device for tearing through walls, and a portable ladder. Whether those on display functioned could not be trialled, but it was exciting to see the other side of the barrage!

Day 49: Mogao Grottos

2008-10-15T00:00:00.000-07:00

Now in Dunghuang City, we drove to Mogao Grottos. 'Mo' means desert, Dunhuang is located on the border of the Gobi Desert; and ' gao' means 'high', we are at great altitude. The Grottos were a place for prayer and meditation for the Buddhist people and are richly decorated with images and statues of Buddha, Bodhisattva and Apsaras. They were originally mostly open-air, but in the 1950s the Dunhuang Academy built protective hoardings to preserve the works from the elements. These works were, in a word, magnificent. Such rich colours, even though changed now by oxidation over the ages, and detail, and the change of design as the grottos were added to in different periods.

The first cave we entered contained at 25 foot statue of Buddha standing, the wall surrounding him containing One Thousand (not literal) Buddhas. This had been built over 29 years, first carved in the rockface, coated with straw and clay, then painted with mineral dyes. Time had revealed some of its inner construction, but it was still amazing.

In the next we saw a Reclining Buddha who had found Nirvana. This too was of great scale, and he was overlooked by 72 bas-relief statues of common folk which included many different ethnicities. The ceiling of this cave was tomb-like, fitting the scene.

In 1900 a self-appointed curator for the area, Taoist monk Wang Yuanlu, saw a crack in the hill and upon futher investigation 'The Hidden Library' was discovered -- a tomb containing many thousands of scrolls spanning hundreds of years. These scrolls now reside in museums around the world, but the tomb itself remains.

The Mogao Grottos were spectacular and must be seen. Photography of any kind is not allowed. Copies of the murals exist about Dunhuang, but they cannot compare to seeing the real thing.

Day 48: Jisco

2008-10-14T00:00:00.000-07:00

Jisco is the Jiuquan Iron and Steel Group Company, and this morning we presented their exhibition hall and taken to see what of their sheet steel processing plants.

Asides from tourism, Jisco is again the lifeblood of Jiayuguan and has indeed done very well for the community. Their staff all receive very impressive salaries, the company has built apartment blocks, a swimming pool, gymnasium and parks for the community also. As a company, they had very difficult beginnings due to circumstances of the late-50's and 60's but since the 80's have done very well. They produce a variety of steel products: plate, wire, stainless steel; and have a thriving research and development division.

In recent years Jisco has diversified into other areas, one of their newest venture being the Zixuan Winery. Their first bottles of wine were produced in 2006, and immediately began winning awards. It is a fast growing operation, with a vineyard of 50,000 mu, and cellar of 5,700 oak barrels. They produce a selection of dry red wines and ice wines.

Jiayuguan is a highly developed region with thriving and supportive industries, and surely a bright future.

Day 47: Jia Yuguan City

2008-10-13T00:00:00.000-07:00

The destination today was Jia Yuguan city, perched in the narrowest region of the Hexi Corridor. Travelling there it was clear was it was termed such: mountain ridges can be seen either side of the road. It is for this reason that the development of the Great Wall in Jia Yuguan was very strategic. Several portions of the Great Wall from different periods are preserved in Jia Yuguan, and we visited a village fort. This village contained the one well for the region, and the foretress was also very strategic. There are various traps employed in the construction of it.

First was the location, in a dip that enables it to be hidden from the view of approaching enemies. When it did come into view, the tops of the walls were constructed with areas to place their torches so that they too could not be seen, so approaching enemies would believe the village be asleep. When the enemy was close enough, the villagers could quickly appear and take the offence. Finally, were the enemy to make progress, the fortress' front gate lead to a courtyard that, rather than being in the village as it appeared, was another trap. The 'front gate' would be opened, the enemy storm in, and then the gates would be closed, trapping the enemy in the courtyard.

We then travelled to the First Beacon Tower, a series of which was used to communicate messages. Towers were built every kilometre, and when we saw the location of this tower it was obvious why. It was perched on a clifftop that saw for miles!

Following dinner we were lead for a walk around the nearby park. In this park is a gigantic dolphin-like structure, on whose nose is resting a ball. This ball is infact a meteorological centre. The park surrounded a large lake and included many statues, wall-carvings and brilliantly lit sculptures. It is very beautiful, if not somewhat unnatural. Each lake and stream is concrete-lined and -banked. It is very nice to have such an area, though, and must be greatly appreciated by the locals.

Day 46: Jinchang City

2008-10-12T00:00:00.000-07:00

Our week of visits began with a four hour drive to Jinchang, a city based on its mineral extraction. The city has 400,000 people and is noticeably quieter than Lanzhou with far fewer people and vehicles on the streets. We had lunch with the Vice-Mayor of the city, the regional director for the Foreign Affairs Office and others. The flavour of Jinchang seems to be quite spicy, most of the dishes had some degree of heat, and the local (non-alcoholic) beverage is Jujube juice (sour date juice).

The afternoon was spent looking about the city, for which JNMC, Jinchuan Nonferrous Company is clearly dominant, many of the buildings emblazoned with its logo. The heart of Jinchang is indeed its Nickel Mine. The practice of Open Mining was stopped in the 1980s, but those pits remain and we saw one of them. The tunnels underground which are in use now were visible, but the vehicles were dwarfed by their surroundings. We were shown an exhibition hall about the operations and also shown through one of their extractions plants, a truly mammoth operation.

Later we were taken to Jin Shui Lake (Grey Water Lake), a man-made lake developed to beautify the area. It is fed from the treated waste water of the extraction plant. There are actually six lakes in the 26 hectare park, which is beautifully landscaped. There is a notable lack of recreational areas except for one courtyard bordering on the lake where children ride the hover-boards, capture minnows in the lake, and enjoy the spectacular view.

We headed back to the hotel and were indulged in a banquet with the CEO of JNMC. By the end of it I was quite tired and ready for a long sleep. Tomorrow, to Jia Yuguan.

Day 44: Visit to Foreign Affairs Office

2008-10-10T00:00:00.000-07:00

This afternoon we had a scheduled visit to the Gansu Foreign Affairs Office. We received three presentations: the first a presentation on Canada's geography, economics, politics and culture. The second was on "The Pride of Gansu", a list of which I will share below. Most items also link to more information, so please have a look and find out about the Prides of Gansu!
The third was on Modern Chinese Wedding Celebrations, a topic that I got some insight into the week before.

Without further ado, The Prides of Gansu:

Dúzhě (读者) Magazine - circulation of 10 million each month
Hand stretched noodles, found in popular Lanzhou dish, niú ròu miàn
Mogao Grotto and Frescoes
Shenzhou 7 Spaceship
Jiuquan Satellite Launch Center
Bronze Galloping Horse statue, discovered in Wuwei
Shandan Military Horse Farm, biggest in Asia
President Hú Jǐntāo and Premier Wēn Jiābǎo, who have both spent time in Gansu
Corn Harvest, Gansu produces half of the China's corn
Beer Barley, Gansu produces a quarter of the China's barley
Traditional Medicine, Gansu produces many ingredients for traditional medicine
Jinchuan Group Ltd (JNMC), Jinchuan Non-Ferrous Metal Company
Jiuquan Iron and Steel Co. (JISCO), Jiuquan city
"Copper City" of Baiyin
Four vaults of Classical Books
Emperor Fúxī (伏羲), survivor of Great Flood and repopulated with Nǚwā
Goddess Nǚwā (女娲), survivor of Great Flood and repopulated with Fúxī
Emporor Huángdì (黄帝), considered to be the ancestor of all Hàn Chinese
Emporer Qín Shǐhuáng (秦始皇), first to unite China
Poet Lĭ Bái (李白), regarded as one of the greatest poets in China's literary history
Mogao Grape Wine
Beauty Diāo Chán (貂蝉), one of the Four Beauties of Ancient China
Mǎ Sānlì (马三立), cross-talk actor
Compere Zhu Jun (朱军), CCTV presenter
Compere Shuĭ Jūnyì (水均益), graduate of Lanzhou University
Compere Lĭ Xiū píng (李修平), CCTV presenter
Lǐ Yáng (李阳), developer of "Crazy English", a new way for Chinese to learn English
Scientist Qín Dàhé (秦大河), Former Director of the China Meteorological Administration
Yumen Oil Field, first natural oil field of China
Tower of Red Army's Force joining in Huining, commemorating the turning point for the Chinese Revolution from depression to victory
Liújiāxiá Reservoir, first to be designed and constructed solely by Chinese
Yellow River Elephant Fossil, at Gansu Provincial Museum
Màijī (麦积) Mountain Grotto in Tianshui
Tiānzhù (天柱) White Yak, Tibetan Autonomous Region
Wushaoling Tunnel, longest in China (20.5km)
Steel Bridge on Yellow River, built 1907
Lanzhou is the geometric centre on the map of China
West-East Natural Gas Transmission Project, 1/4 of which lies in Gansu
Great Wall in Jiayuguan Pass, Ruins of the Ming Dynasty Great Wall
Water Diversion Project, from Yangtze River to Gansu for irrigation, 800km long
'Postman', the symbol of China Post, found in murals of Jiayuguan City
Potato, Gansu is the largest producer in China and have produced the new variety 'Black Beauty'
Crescent Moon Lake in Dunhuang.

Day 43: Silk Market

2008-10-09T00:00:00.000-07:00

A group of us made a venture to the Silk Market: Eva, one of the Indonesian girls; Ashley, the American; Andrew and myself. Here there is an astonishing selection of fabrics and tailors, meaning you can purchase your own material and have it tailor-made into a suit or dress all on the same premises.

Andrew and I had actually visited the market a couple of times before, Andrew ordering a qípáo (旗袍) to be made for his girlfriend, but neither of us had yet ordered a suit.

It was Eva's first visit to the Silk Market, so we had a look around a number of the stalls. She decided not to purchase anything here though as she was also visiting Beijing where everything is cheaper (because of the size and location). She did assist me to buy a suit though as she has excellent Chinese language skills. There were two stalls I was interested in because of the fabrics. We went to the first, but they failed to offer a satisfactory price. Eva felt this was because I was a foreigner and so they thought they could charge more. We came close to agreement, but they then explained they would use another material, not the one I wanted. All three of the people at the stall furiously tried to bargain with us, but we just walked away.

The second stall was much more satisfying. Predictably, their starting price was much higher than we felt reasonable, but this was quickly brought down. Soon the stall-owner was taking measurements and I flicked through the pattern book. I am not sure what the final product will be like, but can collect it in a weeks time!

Another purpose for our visit to the Silk Market was to meet with a stall-owner there, Ming. We had met Ming on our first visit. He owns a button and zip store (very necessary in such a place!) and has been teaching himself English using books, television and radio. By all means his command of English is excellent. Ming had invited us to meet with him for dinner sometime, and tonight we were all available. He took us to a nearby lamb restaurant, 忠华手抓大王 Zhōnghuá　Shŏu　Zhuā　Dà　Wáng (literally, China's Hand-grab Mutton King) which proved excellent. It was a very interesting conversation, and Ming's self-teaching methods had clearly served him well. And in traditional Chinese fashion, as he had invited us (and especially as it was our first meeting), he settled the bill. We were very gracious towards his kindness and all marvelled over the good people we had met as we returned home.

Day 42: Rural Visit

2008-10-08T00:00:00.000-07:00

Wednesday is our Chinese Culture class and today we had a fieldtrip. We were travelling to a rural area to visit the school, meet some families and to see a farm.

Our first destination was #69 Lanzhou Middle School (which actually caters for students from kindergarten up to Middle School). Groups of three delegates were taken to the different classes and we were presented to the students and spoke with them for a while. Unfortunately, most of the interaction was on the class-level, meaning that most students were quite shy and did not speak up. We did get a few minutes for one-on-one discussion with the students which was good, although the focus quickly became them collecting our signatures! Having us write in their books was obviously very desirable, and when the period was over we left the classrooms to find the hallway was crammed with students wanting our signatures. This aspect was quite overwhelming.

Next we walked through the courtyard where several classes of students were doing their daily exercise sessions: music is pumped through speakers and students and lead through stretches, jumps and other movements.

We were shown through to a classroom set up for various cultural performances: the zugheng, erhu, singing, and calligraphy. Another group of talented young people entertained us!

Next we visited the homes of several of the school students. These were generally quite humble but the families were friendly, welcoming and keen for us to look about their abodes.

Our final destination was to visit a farm in the area. There was a broad range of crops growing: tomatoes, peppers, carrots, beans, aubergine (eggplant), lettuce, broccoli, spring onions and corn. A few workers were present: collecting produce, tending to the plants, and digging up the soil. We helped collect ripe tomatoes, one brave soul began digging over the soil (despite being dressed in a suit!), and we spoke with some of the workers.

After a different perspective of life in Gansu, it was time to return to our own.

Day 41: Investment Bureau

2008-10-07T00:00:00.000-07:00

In order to better understand the economic situation of Gansu and investment opportunities we were taken to visit the Investment and Trade Promotion Bureau of Gansu Province. Here we were met by Mr Zhang Shien who gave us a presentation.

Overview

Gansu is a province in the north-west of China with fourteen cities. The province covers an area of 425,000 square kilometers with a population of 26 million, including members of 55 ethnicities. The landscapes are diverse, including plains, plateaus, river valleys and the Gobi desert.

There has been a lot of investment in infrastructure, particularly roading (the highways between cities are excellent!) and railways. There is a broad range of economic activities taking place including agriculture, metal (both non-ferrous and iron and steel), petrochemical and manufacturing. The emphasis is upon adding value to products within the region. There has also been significant biological and pharmaceutical research.

Petrochemical Industry

There are two oil fields in Gansu, and the petrochemical industry can produce 800 kinds of petrochemical products in 25 categories: petroleum processing, ethylene, chemical fertiliser, synthetic resin, rubber synthesis, refinery catalysts and chemical additives.

Metallurgy and Nonferrous Metals Industry

Gansu is rich in mineral resources and key enterprises such as JISCO, JNMC and Baiyin Non-ferrous Metal Company lead the sector. Metals dealt with include: iron, steel, nickel, lead, aluminium, and silver.

Biological Pharmaceutical Industry

The two main production areas of pharmaceuticals in Gansu are Dingxi City and Longnan City. There are 1500 kinds of medicinal plants found in Gansu, and a lot of research and development has been taking place at organisations such as Lanzhou University, Biological Institute of Gansu Provincial Academy of Sciences and the Lanzhou Institute of Biological Products. Research has taken place in areas such as vaccination, genetic engineering, natural medicine and crop breeding.

Agricultural Industry

Some of the main agricultural products of Gansu include: potato, traditional Chinese medicine, clover, corn, beer barley, apples and pears. Grain is grown on over 2.5 million hectares of land in Gansu. An advantage of growing in Gansu is that it receives a lot of sunlight, long frost-free periods and large day-night temperature differences, all beneficial to protein synthesis and sugar accumulation.

Tourism Industry

There are many natural sights in Gansu, from the glaciers and limestone caves to the Gobi Desert and canyons. The vast number and variety of ethnicities provides rich culture, there is lots of great food, entertainment and shopping to be had!

Energy

There has also been great investment in Solar Enery and Wind Energy. The wind farms in Yumen and Anxi are the largest in China.

Labour

The province has minimum wage rates under four different categories, ranging from Type-I area which is 6.50 Yuan per hour to Type-IV are which is 5.20 Yuan per hour.

Contacts

Gansu Investment and Trade Promotion Bureau, www.gsinvest.gov.cn, [English]

Other contacts:

Day 39: Making Dumplings

2008-10-05T00:00:00.000-07:00

Having dined on a feast of dumplings (jiăozi,饺子) a few days before, today we were offered the opportunity to learn how to make them! Stephen and Echo were our teachers (and we had a few other Chinese friends who assisted as well). Eighteen of us squeezed into the Guesthouse kitchen to watch and assist. It was quite a task –- the spring onions and other filling ingredients have to be chopped up finely, and dough is pulled and rolled into casings, and it is all brought together and folded to produce dumplings. These are then cooked by boiling, steaming or frying. The afternoon was whiled away at these tasks, but the end result was delicious! Yum!!

Day 37: International Potluck Dinner

2008-10-03T00:00:00.000-07:00

It was planned that this evening the International Delegates who were still in Lanzhou would have a Potluck Dinner, each preparing a meal popular in their homeland. With semi-limited cooking facilities (one hot-pot and a microwave for the building!) and our food-stuffs limited to that available locally, we put our thinking caps on as to what we would provide. (Andrew made the observation: what’s Kiwi without being barbequed or roasted?) My solution was to make a coleslaw with red cabbage, white cabbage, celery and sultanas, with mayonnaise on the side – all of which was purchased from our local supermarket.

At the designated time, 7pm, people were still cooking. 7.30pm and everyone had arrived, and we asked our guest for the evening, Stephen (usually our host!), to say a prayer. This lead to a round of blessings and thanks in numerous languages, and 8pm we tucked into the food! A great spread of food was prepared, from tomato pasta, beef patties and fried chicken to fruit salad, a sweet green soy bean drink and bananas served in a Mexican yogurt sauce. Yum!

Following the meal we all broke into conversation (and some into song!), before we knew it, it was late!

Day 36: Lunch with Lyn

2008-10-02T00:00:00.000-07:00

After such a busy few days, I was pleased to have this morning off! I used it for housekeeping: laundry, catching up on e-mails, and a little bit of study (!). At twelve noon, though, I headed off with Andrew to meet the Australian woman, Lyn. She introduced us to two more young Chinese women who both spoke exceptional English. Catherine is studying medicine and Juliana is studying journalism. Both are in their last year at Lan-Da and keen to continue their studies in America.

Lyn lead the group of us to the restaurant 玉清源酒楼　(Yù　Qīng Yuán　Jiŭ Lóu).

Here we had a great selection of dumplings (jiăozi,饺子) – steamed and fried, with pork and with tofu; and sweet and sour pork, pumpkin with lotus bulb and beans. There is a great number of permutations by which you can have your dumplings made, and the first challenge was narrowing it down to a small - selection! The second challenge was finishing them all – something we didn’t achieve, but we gave it our best shot!

Again, the conversation was varied and pleasant. Lyn, Andrew and I found we often had to remind ourselves to slow down so that our Chinese friends could also listen, but a great time was had by all!

Day 35: Outing with Li

2008-10-01T00:00:00.000-07:00

This morning I received a phone call from Li, who I had met with the week before, asking whether I could met with him that morning. I met with him at the main gates of the campus and was immediately whisked away in a taxi. He explained that he had tickets for a performance that morning. We went into the theatre and managed to find seats near the front.

The performance was by school children, seven to sixteen years of age, and they sang, danced, performed musical instruments and presented the shows. The talent shown by these youngsters was amazing – such control of tune, rhythm and movement. They performed in large groups and individually, and each performance was just as stunning. Astonishing was a R’n’B performance with Hip-hop dance moves – it was comical watching these young Chinese children dance, but they did it with such precision and timing it was brilliant to watch!

My favourite performances would be firstly a young couple of boys who played a stirring performance on the èrhú,

And then a heart-rending remembrance of the Sichuan earthquakes, played out by a group:

Donations can be made to the Chinese Red Cross here

All the performances were fantastic and I thoroughly enjoyed the performance. There is clearly a great number of stunning young performers making their ways up the ranks in China!

Following the performances. Li and I headed to a nearby Beef Noodle House for the Lanzhou specialty! Next, we had planned on joining some of his friends who had gone for a tramp, but they were out of contact and so instead we travelled across town to meet with one of his best friends. Li, before receiving the support of his sponsor, worked in a foot massage shop, and his friend was one of the other masseurs there. We stopped at a bar for a few drinks and had a great afternoon!
By the end of the day I was exhausted, though delighted, and keen to see what the next day would bring (though, a rest would also be welcome)!

Day 34: Outing with John

2008-09-30T00:00:00.000-07:00

Today I met with John, who I know through the English Speaking Corner, and we took a bus to the city center of Lanzhou. Here we met his best friend, Liu-kang, who he studied with before they went to separate schools. Together we went to Relics Market, which is housed in a traditional area in amongst the big city. There were all manner of items for sale here, from weapons such as swords and crossbows, brushes for calligraphy and watercolour, old memorabilia including stamps, badges, photos and newspapers, and much, much more. You could spend a good half-day or more browsing through everything! While we were there we saw a fascinating collection stones, some which had been found with image-likenesses in them, and those which had been enhanced with images. We were also able to see calligraphy master at work:

Next we went for a walk through the Waterwheel Gardens, where there is a display of some of the old waterwheels that helped irrigate Lanzhou. It is a very peaceful spot with lush green gardens with many places to sit and relax. There are also models of some of the old water pumping technologies (human driven!) which you can work yourself (if you still have the energy!).

After the Waterwheel Gardens we met with a female friend of Liu-kang's, Venna, who took us to a popular restaurant for a feast of bāozi (steamed stuffed buns, 包子). We dipped these in saucers of vinegar and chilli and they were delicious! We walked around the Yellow River for a while before parting ways. I am so pleased to have met all these lovely people!

Day 33: Invited to Wedding

2008-09-29T00:00:00.000-07:00

Today I was invited by a friend to attend a Chinese Wedding ceremony. Unfortunately we arrived after much of the ceremony had taken place but the venue, the Yellow River Romantic Gardens (黄河风情园), was beautiful.

When we arrived, we were met by the families of the bride and groom, and then the bridge and groom themselves! It is a tradition of Chinese weddings that it is the bride and groom that visit each of their guests, rather than the other way around.

There were twenty to thirty tables, each decorated with rich red (an auspicious colour for the Chinese, providing good luck). A course of cold dishes were then brought out. This was followed by a course of warm dishes. The bride and groom appeared again by us, and the bride was in a new dress, this one pink. The changing of The groom was apparently following another tradition, where they perform a toast of baijiu with every guest! Guests passed red envelopes containing money gifts to the bride and groom, red again providing luck.

Following the wedding banquet, I went for a walk with my friends around the Water Wheel Garden. We sat down and enjoyed a glass of tea each and talked while the sun went down, a pleasant end to a day with such pleasant company!

Day 32: Visit to Lanzhou Museum

2008-09-28T00:00:00.000-07:00

This morning we travelled with three bus-loads of other international students to together visit the Lanzhou Museum. The first hall that we were introduced to was a history of the Silk Road, the extensive trading route that runs through Gansu, connecting North, South, East and West. This road has been used for thousands of years, and as such has a long and interesting history. The exhibition included many ancient artifacts: tools, art, pottery and items of trade.

There was also an extensive collection of Buddhist sculptures and artworks.

As well as these collections of historic relics, there are preserved natural resources also. In other halls there are a number of fossils including a 4 metre high replica skeleton of the Mammoth and exhibits on the panda, golden monkey and cranes (of the avian variety). Well worth a visit!

Day 31: A Day of Feasts

2008-09-27T00:00:00.000-07:00

Even though today is Saturday, we have class because of the upcoming National Holiday Week. To console ourselves, a group of us headed to a pizza-restaurant we had heard about, Miro Pizza. We did not know what to expect, but arrived to find a very comfortable and tidy diner that would remind us of home. The pizzas on offer were perhaps not standard Western fare, though, many including chilli flakes, fish and squid rings. The most common request was the Supreme, which *was* the typical style Western pizza. When the pizza came out, every piece was devoured and I think the happiest reunion was with cheese, which rarely appears in the Chinese diet.

Later that day we were invited to the home of a family that Ashley has been tutoring for. The apartment was in an inner-city building. Both the building and apartment were stunning, testament to the family's success. The apartment was lightly but by-all-means comfortably furnished, and the parents entertained us while we waited for their daughter (Ashley's student) to arrive. They both spoke very good English although, like many Chinese, the wife was too shy to speak much of it; and they were the most delightful hosts, we could honestly have spent the whole evening there in conversation! However, their plan was to take us out to a restaurant for a meal, so that was not to be. Their daughter arrived, and we were out.

They took us to a Muslim restaurant, Malaoliu(兰州马老六清真餐厅, or "MaLL" for short) that is well known for its lamb dishes. Indeed, one of the first dishes brought out was cooked lamb which we were now familiar with dipping in salt and pepper, and there are no complaints about that! Next were some light fluffy bread circles which we opened up and stuffed with chicken cooked in delicious spices. A fú wù yuán (waitress) came into the room with a black bag which she held open for our hosts. Next thing we know, the bag is flipping and jumping around -- there was a live fish in it! A little time later that was served up to us, steamed and garnished.

The conversation continued for hours, they are such wonderful people, I am pleased to have met them (and have our American friend, Ashley, to thank for that!) The wife and husband both gently jibe each other, they are so much fun! We took turns telling jokes, sharing tongue twisters (both English and Chinese). The laughter continued through the evening, until it grew time for us to depart.

We have met so many wonderful people in China, and I have a feeling over the coming months we will all meet many more. I hope we can return at least part of the kindness they have shown us.

Day 29: Foreign Experts National Day Banquet

2008-09-25T00:00:00.000-07:00

This evening we were invited to attend a banquet at the Lanzhou Hotel celebrating the upcoming National Day, marking the anniversary of the formation of the People's Republic of China on October 1st 1949. The banquet was also used to honour a number of Foreign Experts who were bestowed awards for their contribution to the province of Gansu in the last year. There was a large turn out, our people in their best dress, and it was again a night of fantastic food and wonderful performances.

Food of the night included Crab Roe Soup, Beef stuffed with Facai (a black moss delicacy), french fries (!), and many other dishes.

The performances really stole the show though. Each of the performers was a "First Class Winner" or "Golden Prize Winner" of their respective art, and their talent blew us away. Especially entertaining was Dong Kang, a traditional opera actor in the art of "face changing" -- it really must be seen.

Day 23: Paul appears in the Paper

2008-09-19T00:00:00.000-07:00

Today I was given a copy of the 'Gānsù Rìbào' (The Gansu Daily), the largest distributed newspaper in the Gansu Province and, lo-and-behold, there was a photo of me on the front page! This photo had been taken at the National Trade Fair at Pingliang, and shows me being presented a glass of biajiu.

I cannot yet read any of the caption or the surrounding newspaper columns, which creates an even greater yearning to learn the language.

Day 22: Lanzhou Middle School's Sports Day

2008-09-18T00:00:00.000-07:00

This morning we awoke at a great deal of activity taking place in the field next to our dormitories. I looked out my window, and there were the Lanzhou Middle School studeents, marching around the track! There were a number of athletics activities throughout the day, from marching drills, running races, long-jump and more! It seems that all the Middle Schools of the region have their Sports Days around this time.

Class was cancelled this day as our teacher was sick, so Ashley and I found a quiet place on campus and studied. We found a peaceful spot by a small pond, shaded with trees and conveniently placed rocks for sitting.

Finally this day finished with more activity in the field, this time dancing! This was the Chinese "long sleeve" Dance (cháng xiù wŭ, 长袖舞) which was very enjoyable to watch!

Day 21: Lanzhou University counts down to 100

2008-09-17T00:00:00.000-07:00

Today Lanzhou University, Lanzhou Dà Xué, began the proud countdown to it's 100th year. It was marked with the unveiling of a countdown clock inside the main gates of the campus and a performance in the evening. There was a selection of songs performed, both traditional and current pop. Sadly, the heavens chose to open over the performance, but a taste of the experience can be seen below:

We are thankful for Lanzhou University being such kind hosts to us, and wholeheartedly congratulate them on the countdown to their centenary.

Day 20: Tree Planting on the Lanzhou Hills

2008-09-16T00:00:00.000-07:00

For lunch today, Andrew and I decided to travel a little further a-field than what had become the stock-standard for a good cheap lunch. We instead headed somewhere outside the campus further down the road in the opposite direction of our 'usual'. We found a number of food places along the road and chose a large and popular place which housed a number of food stalls. We opted for Beef Noodles, and sat down. (I was very pleased when one of the nearby diner noted that I could use chopsticks better than Andrew ;)

We (i.e. Andrew) got talking to a couple at the same table as us, and found that they were out the nearby School of Arts, he was a teacher and she was an artist completing her Masters at another campus. They invited us back to the school to see some of her works, an offer we readily accepted. There was a fantastic selection of Chinese-style watercolours depicting scenes, flowers and portraits. They then insisted that Andrew and I select a painting each which they would give to us. Andrew tried asking them to accept some money, but they wouldn't take it, astutely noting "It wouldn't be a gift then!". Both Andrew and I were exceedingly grateful for their generosity and will treasure those pieces.

Later that afternoon the group were taken to the Lanzhou Hills to learn about the treeplanting project to "green" Gansu. First we were taken for a tour through the newly opened Lanzhou Green Culture Exposition, housed in a brilliant building with educational displays over three floors. There four four halls, the first depicting the need to protect and enhance the environment in Gansu, the second showing the history of plantings (in the 1950s they cut ice from the Yellow River when it froze, carrying it up the hillside to water the soil!), then the technology in use and specimens of the plantings and wildlife. Finally was a hall depicting the future of Gansu, and it looks very green indeed!

Following these presentations we ourselves were able to get involved and planted a number of trees. The holes were dug already, so it was more a matter of having the plant sitting correctly, filling and compacting with soil, building a mound around the plant to hold water, and watering it! It was pleasing to see the level of understanding and importance held on protecting and enhancing the environment, and I look forward to seeing the state of the environment in twenty years!

Day 19: Meeting with Li

2008-09-15T00:00:00.001-07:00

Before I came to China I met with a Christchurch woman who has sponsored a boy in Gansu to be able to study at school. This boy is Li, and today I had the pleasure of meeting with him. Li is 22 years old and, through the kind support of his sponsor, is studying Computing.

First Andrew and I met Li for lunch and he showed us a great restaurant where we had lamb meat which we dipped in salt and pepper before eating, cow's knee which was served in a sweet sauce, and a sweet white soup. Following that, Li took me to his school and showed me the buildings. Li said that there were around one-thousand students studying at the school, though we couldn't get into the school building itself because it was a public holiday (Mid-Autumn Festival). I did get to see inside the Dormitory Building and we sat on the field and had a good chat.
The dormitory building is six storeys high, the first three floors for boys and the upper three floors for girls. Many of the students here are between fifteen and eighteen years old, and eight people share a room. Next, Li showed me his accommodation which is just a short walk from the school. This was a sparsely furnished room with a hard bed, a desk and drawers, and little else. He had recently purchased speakers for his MP3 player so we was able to reintroduce me to Backstreet Boys and Blue, and he showed me his English-language textbooks.

It was wonderful to meet Li, and very kind of his sponser to enable him to get an education. It was interesting to see a bit of student-culture in China, and the only suprise was the amount that the group of them smoked, but otherwise they were as gentle, generous and fun-loving as you could wish.

Day 18: Stone Art Museum and Qingcheng

2008-09-14T00:00:00.000-07:00

As we left Qingyang it was evident that while a lot of development is underway, a lot of maintenance is required also. Nevertheless, the people express the same warmth and friendliness seen before and there is certainly a bright future for this city. The culture is alive and well, the workers diligent and the agriculture florishing. Farewell Qingyang.

Longdong Ancient Carved Stone Art Museum is just outside of Qingyang and contains an astounding collection of artifacts chronicalising and memorialising the history of Buddhism.

The pieces include numerous carvings of Buddha -- statues and busts, coloured and unadorned, complete and partial relics. This collection was delightful and inspiring to examine.

Zhou is thought to be the founder of Agriculture in China and his remains are kept in a tomb on a Mount above Qingcheng. On the walk to the tomb there is a large drum and bronze bell whose rich reverberations can be heard around the city of Qingcheng.

Qingcheng Museum is a very new museum, opening just months before our visit. The exhibits were extremely well presented: easily accessed for viewing and most interesting. Sections in the museum include a history of Qingcheng, stone carvings and ancient artifacts, the development of Chinese Medicine (which supposedly originated in Qingching!)
and the tomb of a General. It was absolutely stunning to look around.

Qingcheng was a quite tidy city with a much smaller population than any city we'd visited so far, with only 300,000 people. It is encompassed by two rivers, otherwise appearing quite dry in comparison.

The rest of the day was spent in a bus, returning to Lanzhou. It was good to return 'home'!

Day 17: Village Visit and Qinyang

2008-09-13T00:00:00.000-07:00

Leaving Pingliang, we were taken to a village which had formed three community businesses and transformed the shabby dirt housing into concrete apartments with heating and running water. We had a talk with the Chair of the Business Committee who told us about the transformation of the village, its wealth and how it was being used. They had new dwellings, a school and medical centre, and were helping other villages achieve the same.

Next we were allowed to enter a typical farmer's house in the village, which was very tidily presented and lavishly decorated. It is evident the village is doing well. We also saw an amphitheatre and the school buildings.

This village can be commended for its excellent work, transforming its structures and the lives of its inhabitants, and by all accounts it seemed a place of great contentment.

Driving into Qinyang was another transformation. It is clearly a strong agricultural region with many tended fields and orchards. Many of the houses are brick, clay, or made by cutting into the dirt mounds, producing a home that is cool in summer yet warm in winter. Many houses have corn tied up to dry and haystacks outside.

That afternoon we attended the Opening of the Folk Custom and Culture Exhibition of Qinyang, and it was indeed a grand display. There were demonstrations of needlework, of paper-cut art pieces, silk embroidery, puppetry and musical instruments. We were lead through the displays, filling maybe eight halls over four floors, each room unveiling new delights. The final viewing was a display on the history of Qingyang, and Qingyang indeed has an exciting future!

Huanxian Folk Shadow Play Troupe

The Chinese string instrument 'gu zheng'

That afternoon we had an audience with the Mayor and other dignitaries, followed by another of the by-now famous Chinese banquets. During the banquet were a number more performances, including one by the Hotel Manager who expertly played a piece on the èrhú, a traditional Chinese stringed instrument! China and its wonderful people never cease to amaze me!

Day 16: Kongtong Mountain and Mid-Autumn Festival

2008-09-12T01:00:00.000-07:00

Later we were taken to the foot of Kongtong Mountain where we were taken in smaller groups in vans to the Visitors Centre. This took us up a steep, narrow and frequently winding road. We were driven at great speed, flinging is from side-to-side and the occasional negotiation with other vehicles. There was great relief when we reached the top!

From there, we went by foot. I find it hard to express the experience of being on Kongtong Mountain in words -- it is indeed a beautiful and fascinating place. Kongtong Mountain is the spiritual homeland of Taoism, with many shrines and temples, murals and carvings, dotted about. Each shrine and temple includes a plaque describing the meaning, purpose, or deity of the dwelling.

The building shown to the right is at Second Heaven Door,
near the Twelve Generals Temple which is a temple for the sacrifice to the twelve colour general figures to protect Taoist doctrines and Heaven city. There are numerous such temples, so much to see, and the only way to experience it is to be there!

That evening we went to an open air concert to celebrate the Mid-Autumn Festival. There were a variety of performances with a broad range of ethnic feels, and it finished with a fantastic selection of fireworks. A perfect end to such a wonderful day!

Bonus Footage:
Following the concert, our assistant from Guancheng Hotel serenaded us with a beautiful folk song. It seems everyone here is a wonderful singer, Enjoy!

Day 16: Visiting the Trade Fair

2008-09-12T00:00:00.000-07:00

The National Enterprises Trade Fair Trade Fair opened today, and we were invited to the opening ceremony being held in Renmin Square, Pingliang. Not only did we attend, but we were seated on stage along the fourth row, just behind many dignitaries! This gave a prime viewing spot for all of the activities. It began with speeches from dignitaries including the Mayoress of Pingliang and Vice-Governor of Gansu, before leading into a series of performances with a bang! It must be said that China knows how to put on a performance. I would not want to cheapen the amazing opening ceremony of the 2008 Olympics in Beijing, but that gives some indication of the activity and this certainly was spectacular.

It began with clouds of confetti, and then a team of perhaps 100 drummers came out. Drums are a large part of Chinese celebrations, and they certainly make a mark. The playing was spectacular and performance colourful. Waves of red and yellow flew through the air during the performance as they danced and waved flags.

Next was a performance about the four main economic activities of Pingliang: fruit (particularly their apples), cattle, coal and tourism. This was a dance combining people of many different costumes, including school-children who merrily danced in what I think were apple costumes and cow costumes, a slightly older group of girls in lilypad and lotus costumes, and more! It was a wonderfully choreographed performance and very enjoyable to watch.

Next was an amazing Martial Arts performance, including demonstrations of a wide selection of weapons. The intensity and skill of these performers as they leaped around and fought battles was astonishing.

All the performers came together for one last performance and you couldn't have been more proud for Pingliang.

When the last piece of confetti reached the ground we were whisked off to visit the Trade Fair itself. The purpose of this Trade Fair was to provide opportunities for small and medium businesses across the East and West of China to collaborate. We walked in and were quickly overwhelmed by people keen to show their wares. There is a great amount going on in Gansu, from the growers of the delicious apples Pingliang is famous for, producers of beverages from Iced Tea to Baijou, importers of superb cars; there is a great amount of opportunity for investment and buying.

Seeing Western faces, presenters at the fair were excited to engage with us, giving us samples of their products (much wine and baijou, I was pleased to have a slice of a delicious apple also!), taking photos of us engaging with them and their products and talking with us.

That afternoon we were privileged to have a brief audience with the Vice-Governor of Gansu and other dignitaries. A speech was given by the Vice Governor, welcoming us and informing us on the situation of Gansu. There is so much to Gansu and I cannot wait to learn more!

Day 15: Arrival in Pingliang

2008-09-11T00:00:00.000-07:00

Our journey ended at an absolutely palatial hotel in Pingliang, the Guangcheng Hotel. It was clad in white marble, and on the long entrance staircase stood all the porters and assistants, all smartly dressed, all welcoming. Entering the lobby was breath taking, it was so large and through a row of pillars was a water fountain where a piano player gently serenaded with light songs. We were shown to our rooms which we housed in different buildings. These were beautifully furnished and immaculate. Porters brought our luggage to our floors, then we were whisked away for dinner.
This was a buffet providing a delectable assortment of hot and cold dishes, spicy and sweet. We returned to our rooms to be given gift bags, each containing a Pingliang collectors stampbook and a silver commemorative plate, amongst other goodies.

A group of us decided to check out the spa facilities. These were unisex as, another first for me, the facilities were au naturel. There was one main pool containing numerous sets of water jets targetting various areas of the body, and several small pools containing detoxifying minerals. There were also shower facilities and a massage room.

After spending an hour massaging our bodies with the various sprays of water we headed through to another area upstairs. We were towelled off and given a 'uniform': the tightest underwear imaginable, a large loose orange v-neck t-shirt and equally baggy white shorts (with decorative orange edging). We were then directed to go upstairs where we discovered a mixed-sex nightclub of the sit-down entertainment variety. Lots of seated tables dotted the floor, surrounding a slightly higher stage area. We arrived to a dashing young pop singer who belted out tunes we couldn't understand but it was thoroughly enjoyable. 'Clappers' were provided, plastic hands with hinged hands attached which clapped together when you swung them, and boy was the crowd in a good mood!

Next, a smartly dressed woman came out who performed the most awful and inane magic tricks, the kind we see how to do as kids, but perhaps more entertaining was the rhythm and earnestness she performed them with. The punch line of the first few tricks was the appearance of a white dove, which quickly lost appeal. All the while this act was excitedly narrated in Chinese, but that side was lost on us. Following that the MC came out, perhaps the Chinese version of Ryan Seacrest -- short, slender and energetic, and at least as camp. He tried to cajole people up for a game with large dice, but perhaps the inducement of winning drinks wasn't enough, but a few brave souls partook.

A Tibetan folk singer came out and regaled us with a couple of songs, waving in her shimmering attire. Then a wave of belly dancers took over the stage, swaying rhythmically. They danced and then withdrew to leave one dancer who continued the performance. She wriggled and swayed enchantingly, then half way through her performance she brought out a co-star: a snake. The performance was mesmerising, but you can't help but feel for the snake!

Then, a beautiful high-pitched voice came across the speakers, but it was not who we expected to walk on the stage, instead a man with the most amazing falsetto waltzed out. He broke in and out of falsetto for a song, before the MC returned for what must have been a witty dialogue for the Chinese. I get the unfortunate feeling we were the butt of at least a couple of the jokes, they better watch out I don't break out the translation books!

It was a thoroughly different and entertaining experience, however on our leaving, our Chinese-speaking friend had disappeared for a massage. We were not sure how to communicate with the front desk staff, and they seemed not sure how to deal with us either! Eventually (and it seems the wait is standard practice) we were presented with a bill which we promptly paid and departed.

While may not be evident in the astonishment expressed above, there does seem to be quite some mis-align between this world and that experienced by the less-fortunate and, while this may be no absolution, I keep up my donations to the Red Cross.

Tomorrow we start 'early', needing to be formally dressed for the day ahead -- attending the opening of a Trade Fair.

Day 14: Chinese Culture Class

2008-09-10T00:00:00.000-07:00

This morning we had Chinese Culture class with Professor Chen Haodong. The first session was open for questions from us about what we did not understand about Chinese culture. Some interesting discussion ensued!

Here are some of the points:

Drink

Tap water in China is not drinkable by anyone because of the microbes in it. Water must always be boiled before drinking. Chinese people seldom drink cold water, instead favouring hot drinks. This is firstly for digestive reasons (killing the microbes), and secondly because they frequently drink tea which must be prepared with hot water. They find it hard to understand why Westerners drink cold water!
As a guest in a Chinese household, if you are given a drink and you finish it, this will be seen as a sign that you enjoyed the drink and want more (and they will pour more!) If you have had enough, leave some in the bottom of the glass, otherwise they will top up your drink!

Food

The Chinese are very hospitible people and serve large quantities of good food. Westerners are "more civilised", but in China it is acceptable to make (some!) noise. Dish after dish is often served, and to show you enjoy them you must eat much! As China has been through much poverty, the giving of food is a show of concern and care for wellbeing.
On the converse to drinks, all food should be eaten. As above, food is precious and any leftover is waste. You will be considered well for finishing your meal, even more so for consuming all the crumbs also!

People

The overwhelming majority of people in China are the Hàn people, making up around 90% of the population.
About 60% of China's population, that is 400 million, live in rural regions and on farms. Many people in the city are 'self-employed', operating a stall, but this is a difficult living.
China does not have a religious grounding, individuals may have their own belief. 80% may be atheistic. Instead, Taoism and Confucianism draw from Chinese thinking and not vice-versa.
There are classes in Chinese society, much as other cultures. The lowest are the unemployed. Then there are workers, clerks, professionals and finally officials.
In China, Officials are often selected from engineering and scientific backgrounds as they are seen as more reasonable and rational. Taking bribes is forbidden, and there are severe penalties for doing so.

Culture

Chinese believe "content-ness is happiness", which leads to a reluctance to compete. Competition is akin to Capitalism, and some competition is starting to develop. The conflict between needing to compete for survival and the satisfaction of contentment is painful for some. But farmers typically have a much greater degree of happiness than many Americans (on the Happiness Index!)
The equality of men and women in China's cities is now socially much closer. Women largely control the money, having the final say about what is bought. Before 1900, women had low social status and no control. Mao said that the day women are emancipated is the day China is libearted. In Mao's time, women began taking all sorts of jobs.
Typical ways of showing respect are to smile and, if appropriate, to lightly bow. Officials should be addressed by their title, or "Sir" or "Madam" if not known. Listen quietly, and sit straight.
China is densely populated and so if you do not fight for something you can not place your hand on it. This includes crossing the road! The traffic rules are that right-turning traffic does not have to stop. This means that pedestrians are crossing the road as directed, traffic may still be coming! Pedestrians need to stand their ground and stride across the road. (Ed- travelling in groups is also a good idea...)

That is all for now, keep an eye open for more!

Chinese Life Trivia

2008-09-09T00:00:00.000-07:00

You never have four people: "two plus two does not equal four"! This is because the word for 'four', Sì, sounds very similar to the word for 'death', Sǐ.
Conversely, the number 'eight', Bā, is considered very lucky. Indeed, the Beijing Olympics started at 8:08pm on 08/08/2008.
The Chinese drive on the right-hand side of the road, most of the time... They are fairly flexible with this, which can be unnerving at times but we are yet to witness an accident (fingers-crossed!)
Also, the Chinese often use their horns to make sure people and other vehicles are aware they are there, rather than as a sign of aggression as in other countries. With the many users of the roads and the aforementioned flexible road rules they frequently let each other know they are there!
The sewage system of China can not handle toilet paper, meaning used toilet paper is collected in bins next to the toilet. This is cleared regularly! Furthermore, most toilets in China are not the sit-down kind, but 'squatty' toilets which are set in the ground and users squat over them. These are quite easy to use, but are a suprise to many!
Chinese list ordered items from largest unit to smallest, i.e. Year/Month/Day, and so on. The range of values may be listed as '10-1'. That is just how it is!!
Many visitors to China may encounter gastro-intestinal problems. These are not (necessarily) due to hygiene practices, but rather that our guts are not used to the normal bacteria of the region. Of course, the chilli-laden foods of some regions may bear a part as well...
Whereas in many Western countries a tan or skin colouration may be considered 'healthy', instead in China white skin is seen as desirable and many skin products boast whitening properties.
The Chinese currency has three levels: the Yuán or Kuài, the largest; the Máo or Jiăo, 1/10th of a Yuán; and the Fēn, 1/10th of a Jiăo. This represents the breadth of wealth in the country, that some sectors are reliant on a currency worth 1/100th of the major currency.
Sea urchin is not as tasty as it may look. My opinion, enough said.

Day 12: Study Partners

2008-09-08T00:00:00.000-07:00

The next two days were typical days of class, although in the afternoon we also met with our Chinese study partners: five students of Lanzhou University, from the Arts and English Departments. We were divided into groups and then assigned a study partner, ours was William, a young, smiley and sprightly Arts student. William spent a lot of between-times listening to his MP3 player and when we enquired what he was listening to, he said: himself, singing Italian Opera! We each took turns listening and each were blown away by his voice which was nothing like we had heard before! Some of the more sceptical of the group requested that he sing for us, but he was very shy and said he couldn't without accompaniment. With some encouragement, we moved away from the classroom and into the stair-well where William sang a few bars for us. It was definitely his voice in the recording, and there was no mistaking his strong talent.

When we returned to the classroom, some couldn't help but boast over the brilliance of our partner, but William was reluctant to share further. With a little bit of edging, though, a couple of the other Arts students demonstrated their skills. Below is a clip of Qiqi (or "Jennifer") who also kindly sang for us.

As a study partner, William was very enthusiastic and encouraging, and helped me get a grip on some of the finer points of pronunciation and character-writing. I just can't wait to see him perform again!

Day 11: Visiting Sophia

2008-09-07T00:00:00.000-07:00

Today we met with our Chinese friend Sophia again. This time we met her where she lives which is a half-hour bus journey away from where we are staying. We were met by her smiling face at the end bus-stop and we were taken up a street crowded with street-sellers. Sophia lives with her mother, sharing a reasonable sized apartment on the top floor of an apartment block. Her mother did not speak any English, but she made up for it in overwhelming hospitality. First we were introduced to the famous Lanzhou honey-dew melons, which were sweet and juicy. It was easy to eat more, and the encouragement was there also! Next, Sophia's mother brought out walnuts which she smashed the shells of for us and we were able to feast on the tasty meats. This is walnut season in Lanzhou and there are always several farmers selling walnuts along the sides of the streets.

Sophia teaches English part time at a school and so she showed us the books that they teach from. Both Andrew and I were suprised at the level of language students were expected to learn, which was incredibly stilted and overly complicated. I am not au fait with the serving of quail, but I don't think students need to know about it or many of the other terms used. It was very odd.

Fantastic, though, was the photos that Sophia showed us of her travels to Henan and her mother's book on Hainan, which is indeed a beautiful place. Andrew will be spending a few days there at the end of our trip, so I am very envious! We went for a walk through the campus grounds and saw a bust of Rewi Alley and statue of George Hogg, the founder of and the first headmaster of the Shandan Bailie School. Rewi is famous for his great work as a New Zealander in China from humble New Zealand beginnings.

Sophia's mother showed us through the factory that she works in and we were surpised by the lack of safety gear! Metal shards and sparks happily flew out from the machinery to the ground, and there was a fair accumulation of shrapnel!

Finally, Sophia, Andrew and I went for a wander around the village and sat down for a meal of choice lamb-cuts which we would dip in salt-and-pepper before eating, and a big bowl of lambs-broth which we dunked chunks of a thick unleavened bread in. This filling meal took us to the end of our time with Sophia, then Andrew and I hopped on a bus to return to Lanzhou University. Another wonderful day in Gansu!

Day Ten: In search of a cellphone

2008-09-06T00:00:00.000-07:00

I had been uncertain whether to get a cellphone or not, but decided in order to maintain contact with my fellow delegates it was worth having a look. Ashley, Andrew and I set out on an adventure. We started with the typical Lanzhou breakfast meal -- niú ròu miàn -- which we bought at a different restaurant from the previous time. We took seats outside, but when heavens opened and rain burst forth we took shelter inside.

We took a bus to an electronics market a little further a-field and had to look around for quite a while until we found cellphones (however walkie-talkies are remarkably easy to come by!?) We looked at a few cellphones which were quite flash, but they were equally pricey. At another stall was told the cheapest was 300¥, a little more reasonable for a short-term phone, but I had my eye on another phone. Their attention turned to that phone also, and I was told it was a second hand phone, which they would sell for 150¥! I looked at the phone, and it was indeed small, light, touchscreen and seemed it easy to use so I was sold on it!

At my discovery, Ashley was also keen to scope out second-hand phones. They had no more second-hand phones, but they asked at the stall next to them and, while they didn't have any second-hand phones in the stall, the woman offered to sell her own phone! Ashley tried the phone, the owner removed her SIM card and it was sold, just like that!

Day Nine: Hotpot Adventures

2008-09-05T01:00:00.000-07:00

That night, Andrew and I went out for dinner with Stephen and Echo, who took us to a 'Hotpot' (huǒguō) restaurant. Here we were seated at a table with a gas cooker in a hollow and a pot was placed on top of that containing an oil sauce with chilli. This pot was heated so the chilli was bubbling and pieces of food were added to the pot to be cooked. Items added included vegetables such as sweet potato, beans, cauliflower and bean sprouts; noodles, both thin and wide; and pieces of meat. Each individual then took pieces out of the pot to eat when they were cooked to their liking. The meal was very hot initially, but either our palates adjusted or the chilli cooled. Eitherway it was delicious and an experience we will repeat again soon!

Stephen also introduced us to Báijiǔ, a strong rice liquor. Andrew did not take to it, but Stephen and I downed a bottle each through a regular chorus of 'Gan bei'...

The four of us then went to the English Speaking Corner, incidentally the place where Stephen and Echo first met. There was again a good crowd of students, and one of the children from last week was present also. The discussion was much and varied again, and I was delighted to receive a couple of written notes from the children, including presenting me with a Chinese name!

I am now proud to have the Chinese name 'Gāo xiáng' (高翔), literally meaning Gāo: high, tall and xiáng: to soar. I hope that I can live up to my name!

Day Nine: Visit to Gansu Foreign Affairs Office

2008-09-05T00:00:00.000-07:00

Our second class took place this morning, this time on 'Spoken Chinese'. It covered much the same material as yesterday, but more in depth and was actually quite fun.

In the afternoon was our first visit to the Gansu Provincial Foreign Affairs Office (GSFAO), where we were welcomed by Ms Zhao Shenglan, Deputy Director-General of the GSFAO which she delivered in clear English. She impressed us with the development of the Gansu Province and the Sister City relationships and again spoke of the trials of the earthquakes suffered earlier in the year.

Next, Xu Yan Li spoke about the purpose of our visits to the GSFAO as being information sharing exercises, and their willingness to help us with any of our needs. I spoke with Xu Yan Li later and thanked her, but saying that everything is so well prepared for and organised, and that with the kindness of the people we were lacking little. Honestly, the kindness of these people is breath-taking! A video of previous Training Programmes was shown, giving insight to other activities that we would partake in and the perception and purpose of the programme. I am proud to be part of this and hope that I can meet their needs.

Also in attendance were Stephen (Zhu Yuming), Mr Ding and many other staff of GSFAO. After the presentations we were allowed free discussion and it was great to talk with many of the staff about their experiences and also to catch up with Stephen again.

Day Eight: First Class

2008-09-04T00:00:00.000-07:00

After a week of life in Lanzhou, it was time to begin classes. Thursdays is 'Comprehensive Chinese', a study of reading and writing the Mandarin language.
We began, as all beginners must do, from the very basics. This was an introduction to the syllables of the language, composed of an 'initial' sound, e.g. b-, p-, m- or f-; a final sound, e.g. -a, -e, -ae, -in, -ing; and a tone.

Mandarin includes many sounds that English speakers are not used to producing, and the roman-letter representations (pinyin) does not always sound like what we may expect. On top of that, each syllable may be said in one of four basic tones: flat, rising, curved, or falling. A good introduction to pronunciation of Pinyin can be found here.

It was an interesting, although admittedly tiring class, but it is great to be beginning to learn the language! Now I have homework to do...

Day Seven: Visiting the White Pagoda

2008-09-03T00:00:00.000-07:00

This morning everyone was loaded onto a bus for our first sightseeing as part of the group. This coach was much more comfortable than those taken around the city discussed earlier! We were taken to several places in the course of the day, the first was a park in the rapidly developing Anning District. Cranes reach into the sky as numerous new buildings are developed to attract further investors into the burgeoning Lanzhou economy. This green and tranquil park, largely walking tracks over ponds, is in amongst all of this development and we were told that most of it has sprung up in the last two years.

Our next destination was the White Pagoda Mountain. En route were many more spectacular sights. Again, many new buildings were passed, amazingly looking like clones of one another, not only side-by-side, but many blocks deep also. Lanzhou is definitely growing, and quickly.

We arrived at the Yellow River Iron Bridge and proceeded into the White Pagoda Park. This stretches up the mountain and many fantastic views can be seen along the ascent to the White Pagoda. Looking down was the Yellow River and Lanzhou City, looking up provided insight into the climb ahead with many terraces and brightly coloured pagodas along the way. At various intervals were fantastic brick carvings and murals. Near the top was a shrine to Buddha, resplendent with flowers, candles, charms and incense. Through here lead to a final terrace on which the White Pagoda presides with two of the three original 'Treasures': The Drum of Elephant Skin, and The Bronze Bell. Sadly, the third treasure, The Chinese Redbud tree, whithered away years ago. Never-the-less, the White Pagoda Park is a must-visit.

Also seen in the park was this Tibetan violin/fiddle player:

Day Six: Meeting with Mr Ding

2008-09-02T00:00:00.000-07:00

A number of new students arrived today, from Pakistan, Indonesia and Japan. We all gathered together that afternoon for a meeting with "Mr Ding", the Division Chief of the Gansu Foreign Affairs Office. As Andrew and I had had an informal meeting with him earlier in the week we were expecting the same.
Instead, at the appointed time we were lead into a conference room where he and his staff greeted us. Not only them, but a photographer and video-grapher were there also! Both Mr Ding and the Dean of International Studies at Lanzhou University gave welcoming speeches, interpreted in turn by Steven and Yuan Mei. We learnt that the reason for inviting Pakistani and Indonesian delegates was in thanks for the kind support both countries had given during the trials of the earthquakes that hit Sichuan and also affected Gansu this year.
(On that note, I have been making regular small donations to the Red Cross appeal box at our local chāo shì (supermarket), and encourage you to also support the cause as you are able. We have heard numerous times about the devastation caused, and there are many Appeals out there contributing to the rebuilding efforts).

Then we were introduced to the Staff of the Gansu Foreign Affairs Office: Steven, who is administering this programme; Amanda, who has studied French; Kang who has studied Japanese; Julia, the staff member who will be assisting Andrew and myself; and Roxanne, a new intern. They were all wonderfully pleasant and very welcoming.

We all then went to dinner at a restuarant in a provincial-owned hotel. We were a little concerned initially as we had been forewarned of the amount of alcohol drunk at such occassions, but tonight only tea and Pepsi were poured. Again, an astonishing amount of food was served and no one could have left wanting more.

I must say how comfortable I am feeling with life in Lanzhou, in many ways it is similar to Christchurch and I can see why they are Sister Cities. Firstly, the people are so friendly, so welcoming and so accomodating. I hope that Christchurch is one-tenth as friendly as Lanzhou. Both cities have a large river running through, the Yellow River in Lanzhou and the Avon River in Christchurch. Furthermore, the landscape of both is flat and surrounded by a patchwork of agricultural fields, and the climate in each is similar (albeit the seasons occuring at opposite times of the year!) I cannot wait until I can communicate as easily with everyone with the city!

Day Five: A visit to a middle school

2008-09-01T00:00:00.000-07:00

This morning Andrew had a test to determine which Chinese language class he was to be placed in. While he was taking that, Ashley, Dale, Karombe and myself were shown the way to an excellent beef noodle (niú ròu miàn) house. This bowl of soup consists of a clear beef broth, white radish, chilli oil, coriander and yellow or white noodles. It was delicious! And only 3 Yuan.

Next, we were shown the way to the Medical School Campus. This is just behind the campus on which the Guest House is located, but there are few gates in. We strolled around for a while before being taken to our next destination. We did not know beforehand, but we were being taken into the classrooms of some intermediate school students to help them practice their English! We arrived and were told, "Today's topic is: Make A Difference Day", and had but a glance at a related newspaper article before being ushered in. We each introduced ourselves and then the class was divided into a group of students for each of us. Most of the students were quite shy initially, so it came down to going around the group and having each student introduce themself and what they would do for "Make A Difference Day". Once they began speaking, they all had quite good conversational English -- even the shy children -- but more of a challenge was conveying the idea of "Making A Difference"! Initially students would talk about what they would do for themselves -- that they would get up, eat breakfast, play some games, etc. It took some prompting with the suggestion that perhaps they could help their family or other people in some way, but then some more selfless suggestions came through. That they could do some of the cleaning duties for their mother since she was always so busy, that they could play a sport with their father (even though they didn't really enjoy it!) so they could spend some time with him, or preparing a meal and inviting their friends and family around to enjoy it. And then, finally, their suggestions broadened into the wider community -- helping someone old or disabled, picking up litter/rubbish, etc. Hopefully these children will be prepared to make a difference -- each one is truly capable.

We then separated into groups of two and went into another classroom for the next period and had "free talk" discussions. I went with Karombe into a classroom and we were asked many questions about our home countries, what we thought of Lanzhou, and the students offered helpful advice. This class was absolutely delightful, and while there were some minor errors in their speaking (and plenty of jibes for it), they were an open, interesting and wonderful class. Andrew and I spoke afterwards and agreed that where possible we would dedicate some time to helping with English teaching at the schools.

Day Four: More friends arrive

2008-08-31T00:00:00.000-07:00

On Saturday night the American student, Ashley, arrived. However, after a long flight, she quickly took to bed. Sunday morning saw the arrival of the first of the Canadian students, Dale, who had been to Lanzhou three years prior so he arrived with a friend, Chung. We all went for a stroll around the campus before they experienced the first of their meals in Lanzhou. Predictably, the Guest House Restaurant staff were as generous as always but, also as always, it was a fantastic selection of foods. Another friend joined us after the meal, this one from Zimbabwe. She was an older woman named Karombe who proved to be loads of fun.

That evening we decided to buy some beers and we sat in a park on campus to drink them. There is plenty of beer available in Lanzhou, and certainly at a cheap price, but finding it chilled is another matter. This was the start of many new friendships.

Day Three: A trip to the Yellow River

2008-08-30T00:00:00.000-07:00

This morning Andrew and I decided to venture into Lanzhou to find breakfast. Regrettably we left a little too late and the places we knew of were not serving breakfast. Instead, we found a Cake Shop where the most elaborately decorated cakes sell very cheaply. I decided to buy a savoury bread roll from there, which cost 3 Yuan. Andrew was a little more adventurous and chose to buy food from a street stall. He found something akin to naan bread which was also cooked in egg, making it also like an omelette. This meal was 2 Yuan, and described as "very yummy".

The afternoon we met Stephen to take a bus to visit the Yellow River. Stephen showed us where to catch the bus and how to read the schedule which shows the stops along the way, and buses travel past every 10 minutes. Usually. We waited for a good while and never saw the bus we were looking for. Instead, we took another bus to meet his wife, Echo, and then travelled together to a spot by the Yellow River. At this place we met with his friend, Roy, who is an English Teacher and had two of his students with him -- Alice and Lisa. We found a picnic table by the River and bought some beer which we slowly drank while passing the day. The Yellow River certainly lives up to its name, coloured by silt that is washed into the river, and with two days of rain it was silt-laden. By this particular spot was an Exercise Park containing many brightly coloured exercise machines. Echo explained that these parks had been developed in the lead-up to the Beijing Olympics, that there were many about and that they were use by all people, young and old.

After a good conversation, we left Roy and his students, and went for a walk across the footbridge spanning the Yellow River. This bridge was made in 1907 of iron and is open to foot traffic, bicycles and motor-bikes. Facing the bridge is the White Pagoda Mountain. The architecture on the mountain is fantastic and we will be shown around this area in the next week so will be able to take more photos then. Stephen and Echo then took us for some traditional Lanzhou fare which we found at a restaurant down an alley. This restaurant was over one hundred years old, as attested by a plaque above the door. Our meal included spicy noodles, a rice and date ball, and bowls of a sweet white soup containing wheat.

Next, we started walking up through the parks along the Yellow River. A little way along was an amateur performance of Chinese opera. A good-sized crowd gathered around to listen as several singers took turns with the microphone. Several enthusiastic dancers strutted their way around the circle in great performance.

Further along in another park, a man was setting up a sound system. We sat around for a few minutes, and the music began and a Tibetan dance or exercise session organically formed. There was a clear leader who danced around the area in a wide circle, and one-by-one people joined in. It seemed that everyone knew the dance moves, and it looked like a great deal of fun. We tried to join in, but as soon as we got the hang of the current set of movements, they changed again!

We carried along the Yellow River, coming to the motor-bridge. From here was a spectacular sight of the buildings along the river lit up in bright colours. Unfortunately our cameras could not do the scene justice -- it truly is a sight to be seen. A number of water wheels run along a section of the river as well, but these are only ornamental now. We came across several more public performances -- it is wonderful that firstly performers (amateur or not) are willing to perform in public, and secondly that so many take the opportunity to come along to watch and participate.

Finally we decided to head back home. It was planned to take the bus, however once again we waited and waited for a bus that never came. Taxis were not forthcoming either. Eventually an empty taxi was pulled over and we were dropped back at the university. We thanked Stephen and Echo profusely for their kindness -- it was once again a wonderful day.

Day Two in Lanzhou

2008-08-29T00:00:00.000-07:00

This morning we needed to visit the International Health Centre were our medical records would be checked (and if any of this documentation was lacking we would have to sit through the tests again there). We were met by Lee at the Guest House and were introduced to two students from Korea who also had to do the same paperwork. We all were taken to catch a bus to the Centre. A trip costs 1 Yuan, which is fed into a machine as you climb onto the bus. For the sake of efficiency, they do not provide change so be sure to have the correct amount at hand! The bus then trundled us around the city. Halfway to our destination, the back passenger door of the bus unhinged itself and hung limply, swinging around. Nobody looked surprised. Even with Lee there, it was a challenge to find the Medical Centre, where it was eventually found hidden at the back of a collection of buildings. Upstairs were medical officials, who scanned through all of our medical documents looking for each of the required components (blood tests, an ECG, chest x-ray, and so on). This took a little while, as with the language barrier they sometimes found it difficult to find what they were looking for. Eventually my documentation met their approval, and I was sent away to fill in more paperwork. A fee of 60 Yuan was paid, and we now await their closer inspection which will be completed for Monday.

In the afternoon we met with Sophia, a Chinese friend of one of the earlier delegates -- a delightful young woman with excellent English-speaking skills. She took us for a walk around a few areas in Lanzhou, showing us around some of the clothing and electronic shops. Sophia wishes to be an English teacher but she is finding it difficult to find a full-time position. She currently teaches 20 hours per week, and feels that she is held back by the fact she performed her degree by study-study, a degree that is not valued as highly as a university degree, her age (she is in her late twenties), and that she is not married (apparently uncommon). Despite all these 'setbacks', she is indeed an excellent English-speaker and has the patience and understanding that would make her a good teacher. Aside from her study, she has improved her English by making many Western-friends and watching Western TV and movies. It was a pleasure spending an afternoon with her and both Andrew and I look forward to meeting with her again.

That evening we met with Stephen (Zhu Yuming) from the Foreign Affairs Office and "Mr Ding", Ding Hongxing, the Divisional Chief of the Foreign Affairs Office.
We had a conversation about the programme, how many more students were coming and when they were arriving. There is clearly a lot going on, as Stephen received phone call after phone call, and shared that more students would be joining the programme. They left soon after, and Andrew and I dined at the Guest House Restuarant with a meal that had been ordered by Yuan Mei. When the first two dishes came out we were happy, another two came out and we were astonished. Fortunately their last trip out was one final bowl of soup. It was all such delicious food so we put in our best efforts, but there are limits for all of us!

Afterwards we decided to visit an 'English Speaking Corner' session, advertised as being at 'the fountain' every Friday from 8pm. As the university term starts next week we were not expecting many students. Indeed, when we arrived at the fountain there were several groups of people, but did not seem to be much activity. But once we were seen, both Andrew and I were surrounded and the crowds of Chinese excitedly threw their English at us. It was astonishing just how much enthusiasm and interest there was for the subject but, as Andrew described later on, learning English is one way of climbing the social ladder in China.

There were all sorts of people there -- recently graduated high school students who were about to depart Lanzhou to attend different universities, students who were studying at Lanzhou, young professionals, grandparents, and young children. Especially wonderful was a young girl whose grandfather had taught her English from birth. She asked many well thought out questions about my views on where I was from, on American and British English, and on learning Chinese. Her grandfather then prompted her to recite a training passage she'd learnt. The passage she recited was a discussion on having attended a play which she spoke clearly and naturally about, the nature of the conversation was amusing: the play had not been enjoyable because a couple seated behind her had been talking heatedly and she was unable to hear; she glared at them, which was ignored; and then asked them to please be quiet, and so on! She was exceptionally sweet and I returned to my room to retreive a few small gifts for her and a friend.

It was great to meet so many people enthused to practice English, but it did leave me wanting to learning Chinese even more!

First Day in Lanzhou

2008-08-28T00:00:00.000-07:00

After the longest sleep in many days, nine hours, I awoke to find that Andrew (who had planned to sleep for much longer) had already ventured out into the campus and returned. We were meet at midday by a guide, Leehei, organised by Yuan Mei. Lee is a Masters student of Chinese Literature, who came to Lanzhou from West China for the experience. He has good English-speaking skills, but from time-to-time a word was encountered that neither Lee nor Andrew could translate for the other. Lee took us for our first meal at the Guest House Restaurant, helping us choose a selection of dishes and introducing us to 'Yellow River' beer. We were encouraged to eat (and drink!) heartily, but eventually we could take no more. We then sought to get a SIM card so that Andrew could use his cellphone, and along the way saw the first other European face in a while, an English teacher who has been living in Lanzhou for two-and-a-half years. She is a delightful Australian woman who welcomed us to join her for a meal sometime and promised to show us where to buy those items we may be missing ;)

We required passport-sized photos and so were taken to a small shop just outside the university. When it was explained to the shop owner what we required, we were taken up a tiny staircase to the rickety second floor where there was a set-up with lights, camera and backdrop. Our photos were taken, and minutes later (after manipulating the images on computer, printing, and cutting) we were issued eight photos for 20 Yuan -- 4NZD! We were then shown around the supermarket which is just across the road from the University, where I bought some iced tea. At the checkout, after you have paid you are issued a ticket which is presented to a guard at the exit who checks the items you hold before you are allowed past! We also ventured into the Electronics market, where crowded stalls offered all sorts of electronic equipment.
What I desired was a talking electronic dictionary, with inputs for English, Pin-yin (romanised Chinese), and Hanzi (Chinese characters). The stall-owner did not speak English, and I while the first dictionary proffered allowed English and Pinyin entry, explaining that I wanted Hanzi also was
difficult ;) Eventually I was shown another model, which allowed writing on-screen, however it's menu only came in Chinese. Third time lucky, the model performed every function that could be desired (including much more, such as MP4 player, and Li-ion battery), but was much more than the money I had available. The earlier models were also discussed, but seemed unreasonable and haggling didn't offer much joy. This time I left empty handed, but intend to return some day soon to see what I can find!

That evening we ventured for a look around a few blocks from the University. There were street sellers with many different wares: fruits, socks, mobile phone covers, books, and inevitably, DVDs. We found a Sichuan Restaurant on campus and sat down to a meal of Tomato and Egg and a Beef dish -- delicious! That brought the end of our first day in Lanzhou and left me hankering for more.

Travel to Lanzhou

2008-08-27T00:00:00.001-07:00

On Wednesday we flew from Hong Kong on a near-empty plane to Beijing, where no doubt it would become loaded with participants, officials and spectators of the Olympic Games as they returned home. The temperature was a more familiar 26 degrees Celcius and again we set down while we waited for our final leg which would take us to Lanzhou. The appearance of 'Free Public WiFi' promised on the wireless connections list was not to be, and to buy WiFi credit for one of the other wireless networks available required a Chinese mobile phone, a tool we had not acquired yet, and it was not obvious how to buy credit otherwise. Never-the-less, we hunkered down for a meal at 'My Mill', a Chinese Fast Food Joint. The meals were indeed fast, arriving minutes after ordering, and were delicious and filling as well. And at 58 yuan for a bowl of noodle soup with braised beef (and a bottle of chilled orange flavoured green tea for me), I was told this would be the most expensive meal for a while -- and that at roughly 13NZD for two!

The first sign of China's officious nature was evidenced in the rigorous security checking experienced for flying, of all places, to Lanzhou. First, boarding passes and identities were checked, before carry on luggage and our persons were themselves checked. Fortunately, neither of us had anything to trigger the metal detectors, however the checking of our carry-on rose some issues. In my luggage I had a 125ml bottle of BodyShop deoderant, which is not permitted -- the largest volume vessel allowed is 100mL, even if the vessel is not full. This was relinquished, fair enough. Next, I learnt I was only allowed to take one of the two bottles of anti-persipirant that I carried (the reasoning behind this was not clear to me, but as one was near empty I was happy to give that up). Next, a surprise for me was that I was only permitted to take one of the two bottles of Alanase (a medication for rhinitis)! I gently argued that this was a medication, which I then had to prove by using. At least I had clear sinuses for the flight!
Andrew struck similar issues, relinquishing several items intended as a gift being delivered for a friend. When the official realised Andrew and I were travelling together, I was given my second anti-perspirant back! I can't say I was jubilant, but appreciated the kind act!

Then it was waiting at the airport gate again. From here it could be seen that there is a definite haze hanging over Beijing, what some describe as a "mist", but I won't discuss that further here ;) The excitement to be in China continued, despite being aware that I could not communicate with most of the people surrounding me, but that challenge was not to take the shine off it all.

The flight to Lanzhou was interesting, on a flight of over 100 people, only one other was European! There was some surprise that Westerners were travelling to Lanzhou. Perhaps more surprising was the entertainment on the flight. The audio channels provided three options -- two for the video display (one English, one Chinese), and a music channel. The surprising nature of the music channel was that one earphone was spouting European Pop music (including Celine Dion, Sugababes and Rihanna), and the other was Chinese Popera (a pop-py version of opera)! An unusal and un-explained combination... The flight was pleasant, as each had been. It also provided the first signs that we were headed somewhere less Western, as the tea served this time was jasmine.

When we arrived at Lanzhou airport we were met by Stephen, from the Gansu Foreign Affairs Office, and Yuan Mei (Mary), from Lanzhou University. During the one-hour drive from the airport to Lanzhou we learned that we were the first of twenty-four ambassadors to be participating in the exchange this year. We caught our first sights of the Yellow River, which following a burst of rain was indeed quite yellow with the (clay) washed from the land, and saw tree plantings along much of the hills in effort to change the climate (and protect the hills from being washed away!). We were immediately taken to a restuarant to sample the beef noodles that Lanzhou is famous for. They were indeed delicious, and served with a selection of side dishes including what appear to have been pickled cabbage, a carrot and vinegar combination, slices of ear from some unknown source, and delicious cuts of beef.
Our final destination for the night was the Guest House, where we were shown our rooms. They are quite comfortable, fitted with a (firm!) bed, desk, TV, air conditioning unit, and ensuite bathroom. Sleep came easily that night.

Hong Kong International Airport

2008-08-26T00:00:00.000-07:00

After thirteen hours, we arrived at Hong Kong International Airport to 30 degrees Celcius of humid heat. We found our way to the departures lounge for a mammoth eleven hour wait for our connecting flight. Some reasonably comfortable orange sofas and chairs became our home. We were not the only ones to be waiting the night out in the airport -- at least ten others made themselves comfortable, shifting furniture as wanted to produce these orange 'cocoons' that clustered around the lounge. A god-send was the free wireless internet available in Hong Kong International Airport (and the cleaner's powerpoint we discovered, keeping our laptops live). This was a mostly sleepless night for me, but Andrew blissfully slept through much of the night.

How did I spend the flight? See here :)

Preparing to depart

2008-08-25T00:00:00.000-07:00

It is amazing that the next day is about to come to be -- the day that I depart life, friends and family in Christchurch, New Zealand to be introduced to that in China. I have met many Chinese people through the years and the opportunity to get to learn their language, their culture and their land is amazing. I do not know any Mandarin, I have few contacts in China, and do not know what to expect. What I do know is that this will be a fantastic journey and that I want to make the most of it.

Please join me as I write from day-to-day in this journal where I will share my experiences, photos of the sights and -- an occasional delight -- video from my life in China. Xie xie.